Davidson's: An American Bistro

Davidson’s is a new endeavor created, owned and run by a man who has long served as a chef at other establishments in the Collier-Lee area: Mike Davidson. He runs the show at Davidson’s, and it’s a show worth catching. If you care more about food than drapes, and wouldn’t mind spending 1980s prices—and who wouldn’t, given the current state of the economy?—then you’ll want to call for a reservation.

Server Eileen Mangan had us sipping glasses of Cart & Brown pinot noir ($9) and Manzanita cabernet sauvignon ($6) moments after we were seated. The wine menu is unpretentious yet satisfying, and tops out at $69 for a 2003 bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape. When we say 1980s prices, we mean 1980s prices.

"I hate the flooring," I whispered to Tom. My snobbish heart can be quite vocal.

"Relax. We’re not here to eat the floor," he replied. Thank goodness for men and their basic horse sense.

Before our stomachs could begin to grumble, we were happily munching on warm garlic rolls and chatting with Eileen, a warm, professional presence who appreciates working for food industry veterans. She finds that everything comes down to good food: "Food is so important and primal in this culture."

"We couldn’t agree more," I said. "We’re going to prove that to you, along with our American citizenship, by ordering an obscene amount of food."

"Great!" she said. "There’s no judgment here."

The food orgy began with the creamy lobster bisque with lump crab and cognac foam ($7), a well-seasoned soup with tasty chunks of meat. We also sampled the chef soup du jour ($5), a veggie-loaded, homemade treat that made us both think of winters in the northeast. Tom orders the beefsteak tomato and mozzarella salad ($8) wherever we go. Davidsons’ was disappointing, perhaps because—along with the drapes—they haven’t yet secured the right tomato supplier. Yet there was no disappointment in the charcuterie platter with cured meats, house-made paté, olives, pickles and toasted baguette ($12). I was especially taken with the creamy, subtle paté.

Tom and I were most impressed by all three of the entrées that we tried: the filet of beef tenderloin center cut, demi-glace, truffle parmesan fries ($21 for 6 ounces/$25 for 8 ounces); the espresso-and-cinnamon charred lamb rack with parsnip potato puree, roasted garlic clove and shallot lamb glaze ($22); and the lobster- and lump crabmeat-crusted sea scallops with coconut-infused jasmine rice, arugula and tomato salad ($21). These inventive, delicious dishes would have felt at home at the finest restaurants in the area. The difference? They would have cost twice as much anywhere else.

The chef himself came out to hand deliver our apple crisp ($6) and crème brûlée ($5), and make sure we were well-pleased with our Davidson’s experience.

"Absolutely," I said. "We’ve been especially delighted by the service. Eileen is terrific!"

"We want to do everything we can to take care of our customers," he said. "Whenever possible we honor special requests—low sodium, low fat, etc. We can even cook gluten-free."

"This is going to sound ridiculous, but have you considered ordering some drapes?" I asked. "Your food is so good, I’d hate for anyone to miss it because of something so silly."

"Bistro curtains! They’re arriving next week," he assured me.

"Don’t feel bad," Tom said. "She’s made me rearrange furniture at midnight." We all shared a good-natured laugh about the decorative sensibilities of women.

Mike and Eileen waved us off into the night, a couple of happy Americans with full stomachs and a few dollars left in our wallets. Viva Davidson’s!

Davidson’s: An American Bistro, 15291 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers;
(239) 489-3350. Sunday-Thursday
11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Reservations recommended. Self parking. Credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible.

Reviewed: July 2008